Monthly Archives: Aug 2019

The fight between expectation and reality

A Japanese man walks out into the cobbled streets. His sandals make contact with yet another little dog shit gateaux left stinking in the street. Aghast he steps back and bumps into a young couple with stained nicotine fingers feeding each other croissants, who glare at him and laugh derisively as they walk off to their mouldy apartment above a sex shop to noisily make love while Edith Piaf plays on a gramophone. A pigeon in a beret somehow shits into the mans’ chino pocket and onto his Louis Vuitton passport cover. A man on a moped beeps at him to get out of the road and then steals his passport as he glides past, throwing the passport cover in a puddle as he thunders off into the night to go and smoke cigarettes under the light of a lamppost. The Japanese man glares up at the twinkling Eiffel tower.

“Fuck you too, Paris!” he says and pulling out his phone, books the first flight home.

When i first heard about Paris syndrome, i went through a cycle of emotions. The first i’m afraid, was mirth – pure joyful mirth. I laughed myself inside-out at the thought of disappointed tourists from Tokyo lining up to strike the Eiffel tower with a rolled up newspaper, or buying models of the Sacre Couer to throw in the seine.

But then i took a different view. I think part of the hilarity was the assumption that it couldn’t be real – what place on Earth more closely matches it’s reputation and image than Paris? – but reading more and more accounts, i started to think that it was more of a genuine problem than i realised.

Described as “extreme shock at discovering that Paris is different from their expectations“, Paris syndrome is a form of culture shock and is believed to manifest in a variety of psychiatric symptoms such as delusions, hallucinations, paranoia and even psychosomatic symptoms like dizziness, tachycardia, sweating and vomiting. It has yet to be formerly classified as a mental disorder but around 20 suspected cases appear to occur throughout France each year. Though it appears that the Condition tends to mostly affect Japanese women with very little travel experience on their first long distance trip, not much else is understood about what exactly is happening.

The way Paris is presented to the Japanese – as a heightened playground and Instagram background for immaculately dressed fashion models to serenely float across – seems mostly to blame for creating the gulf between what the sufferers expect and what they find. When i first went, it was so completely what i expected it to be that i do think it contributed to my enjoyment of the place as there’s an undeniable satisfaction in arriving somewhere to find it just how you’d imagined. My perception of Paris matched the images i’d seen of it. But my image of Paris wasn’t built from years of seeing edited Instagram posts with fake clouds, or from an era where anyone can imperceptibly alter, frame or otherwise edit the images they present from a trip. What if in the process of playing with presentation and perception we are creating a fictional version of places that reality can’t compete with?

Once when venturing to Antalya in Turkey I was seeking something out i’d briefly seen while fishing for inspiration on Pinterest. It was called “the stone mirror” and it seemed to be a street where the ground was so finely polished that it looked as though people were walking on the clouds reflected from the sky above. When I got to the street i quickly realised that it was just an ordinary dusty street – what i think had been happening is that lame optical illusion where people take a photo using the screen of a reflective electrical device to create a mirrored effect. The “stone mirror” was a monument that didn’t exist, a site that couldn’t be seen. This is a relatively new phenomenon, but there are more – recent stories tell of a temple that enterprising locals are charging people to have a picture taken in an archway in front of a reflecting pool., except just as before this is just an optical illusion and no such pool exists. The locals just hold their phones in front of the camera and before you know it their neighbourhood has a wonder of the world that people will queue in front of – even after they discover it isn’t there.

This i think presents two solutions. If the issue is in the discrepancy between what you think you’re going to find and what is actually there, the key seems to be in either not visiting somewhere that you have a strong image of so that you’re not upset if it doesn’t match up, or perhaps the answer is in not allowing whether a place is the same as you expected it to be to define whether you’re glad you went or not.

Personally i’m a happier traveller now that I’ve readjusted my expectations. I am rarely disappointed in a destination – i wonder if this is because i have a randomised approach to where i go, which means that i go places based on the desire to go somewhere more than it is to arrive somewhere specific. Or i think it might be in the sheer number of trips i make. I’ve learnt now that the success of a trip lies not in going to the “right place” but in finding what’s right about the place you’ve gone. That can be harder to do in some places than others, (i tried to find what was special about Prague but my favourite part was the flight back if i’m honest).

I think an adjustment as simple as putting the love of travel before the satisfaction of ticking off reflective roads and to other sights that don’t exist is a better way to avoid resentful evenings swearing at monuments. If only that (fictional) Japanese man had realised that Paris was not his to invent, but his to discover – it wasn’t in him, it was out there – and if he hadn’t liked that first street there were a thousand more to see. With all those possibilities you don’t need a reflective screen to see something amazing, you just need open eyes and an open mind.

Three songs, and where they take me

My head against the train window, i gaze out towards the horizon. A dusty terracotta village looms into view in front of a setting sun that slings a thin layer of gold over the edges of everything, framing every angle like a pile of oil paintings, resting in a pile, one on top of the other. Weary locals walk home in the autumn sun. I spot a young couple in tears embrace, and then walk away from each-other. My Ipod shuffles up a song at random – it’s Elephant Gun by Beirut. The song with its mournful horns and melancholy lyrics (“If i was young I’d flee this town”) pair perfectly with the scene and my eyes well up with hot, unexpected tears. The exquisite loneliness of that moment – so far away, so much at the mercy of the world – were crystallised in that song, and when i hear it now, i’m straight back there. It puts me in that train seat, with it’s bristly fabric and table so low i couldn’t cross my legs without banging my kneecaps almost entirely off, and that endless golden village with all of life happening in front of me.

It does more than just remind me. Something in the sound of that accordion seems to take me not just back to where i was all those years ago, but who i was. Photographs don’t do that because they force you to be an observer on your memory and distance you from it. A song is somehow more internal and recreates the mental space you were in more acutely. It’s the closest thing we have to time travel. Smell does it to an extent, but not like this.

In that way I’ve come to think of songs as tickets to destinations more than just things to pass long journeys and they have become an essential part of my travelling experience. If you are lucky enough that a moment fuses completely with a song, you have a ticket back to that time, back to that place for life. Rarely can you force it but when it happens, it’s a gift. Here are three stories of three places, in three songs.

  1. s’Rothe Zauerli – Ose Schuppe – Innsbruck

Anyone who has seen The Grand Budapest Hotel will know that this yodelsome mountain song is already a pensive, melancholy tune. Imagine listening to it as you look up at the Snow-capped Austrian skyline after a short but eventful descent in which it looks and feels like your plane is trying to land in a circle of sharks-teeth mountains only inches wider in circumference than the plane itself. Maybe it was gratitude for another day of life when it had felt so touch and go, but as soon as i was on the airport bus destined for the city centre, that song came on and i knew i had captured the mood of the moment in a way i’d be returning to for years. Innsbruck is pretty remarkable – ringed on all sides by jutting mountain tops it feels like you’re on top of the world, and the city itself is perfect for a couple of days exploring. I found myself at a quiet church near the Alpine Zoo, and walked ever higher up towards the mountains. But i’ll never forget that first glance at the horizon, a ring of flinty blue mountains against the white sky while that song played. Couldn’t have set the scene better if i’d tried.

2. Job 2 Do – Doo Doo Doo – Thailand

I can’t remember how this Thai song – the lyrics of which I’ve never looked into – ever came into the picture on this trip or how i ever heard it, but my first serious effort at backpacking is contained within it, like a snow-globe. All i have to do to go back those nine years to my exploration of that amazing country is to listen to this song. The strange faux reggae takes me back to the the riot of colour that was Kho San road, the sleazy youthful hedonism reminding me of the island in Pinocchio where all of the out of control youths turn into Donkeys. One night i sat in a corrugated iron shack with other confused looking travellers as hot rain fell down and the street filled with rainwater up to our knees. I sat there listening to a radio, smoking and watching the tendrils of my smoke escape from under the tin roof and weave lazily upward through the raindrops. When the water level connected with a sparking cable at the back of the T.V i thought it a good time to wade out into the crowd – fish swimming between my legs – and i could hear this song coming out of an unseen, tinny radio somewhere in the night. I heard it again when i got off a train in Koh Lanta, and once more on a nearly empty island coming form the only other inhabited hut. Like many of the songs that come to be a soundtrack to an experience, they almost always make themselves known – it’s rare that you can get one to stick deliberately – and this one wouldn’t leave me alone.

3. Mike Oldfield – Moonlight Shadow – Seville

There are many reasons not to go on trips. Not necessarily always good ones, but the sheer weight of them can sometimes win out. I’m constantly coming up against them and the one that will put me off most consistently is if the flight back is so early that i’ll have to get a taxi at a ludicrous hour back to the airport. One time during a 3am January taxi trip back from Seville in Spain, this ethereal tune began to play. The nonsense lyrics and po-faced whimsy perfectly fit my sleep deprived state and i really took in the city around me, still sleeping soundly while i was half way between awake and asleep myself. I don’t recommend sleep deprivation as a prism through which to experience a destination, but for whatever reason some alchemy happened in that moment and that tune has hard wired that taxi journey into my memory, and i’ll always think of a twinkling nocturnal Spain laid out in front of me, whenever i hear it.

I could fill a playlist with songs like this, but it’s not the songs that fascinate me, it’s the stories that they are attached to.

I look forward to the next jaunt to see what tunes present themselves to me.

Have a song that takes you to a special place? Feel free to share your tunes/destinations in the comments below

The right way to travel

Today i thought i’d tackle a subject that seems to me to be about as important a subject as any of the subjects that affect the regular traveller.

What exactly is the right way to travel?

There isn’t a right way.

Okay, well thanks for coming and i’ll see you in another six months.

It’s very possible i’m being a little facetious there, but the point i’m making is a serious one, and one that i didn’t think needed to be made until i visited a certain travel related forum. I was asking for suggestions for a future article on this very blog about places you can go where you can visit one country from another as a day trip as part of my fascination with border towns and short, intense experiences rather than longer trips in which you spend time absorbing a country in depth. To my surprise, instead of offering suggestions, the haughty denizens of the forums instead turned their attention to my throwaway description of my preferred way of travelling.

To my assertion that i felt i could get a sense of a place in a day that was in some ways as valuable to me as the sense of a place i come away with after a month, someone replied “You must have a short attention span and an overactive imagination”. The replies kept coming in and got more and more personal until eventually i was informed that i was doing it wrong, and that i was amongst other things, shallow, stupid and “not really travelling”. As many of us now know, going on the internet for any purpose has become like trying to wash your face with a fire hose, but i was genuinely surprised by the strength of the reaction and the fact that the group reached a consensus about me and about what i was saying. The message seemed to be: “you’re doing it wrong”.

In fact, that’s explicitly what they said – with one voice, i found myself condemned by the hive mind of that particular forum (naming no names, but i’m not surprised their planet is so lonely if they’re so horrible to each other).

The idea that there is a correct way to travel is just objectively wrong, more to the point there is no bad reason to travel either – whatever your motivation, whatever your destination, the value is in the getting there, and even a trip that doesn’t go to plan or isn’t enjoyable in the moment will have value in retrospect. It’s always worth going, and it doesn’t matter where. The two places i disliked the most in the last year (Prague and Geneva) had moments i’ll always remember. For those of us who worry about going and come up with lots of rational reasons not to leave the safety of our countries and homes, it can be tempting to decide that it isn’t worth the risk of having a bad trip. The last 14 of my trips have been total steps out into the unknown and I’ve chosen the destination based on what’s the cheapest – effectively letting destiny choose for me – and I’ve not regretted a single one, even if i haven’t had the greatest time.

The best advice i can give is don’t worry about making the right choice, but concentrate more on making your choice right. As a massive worrier i must say that obviously nothing is without risk and i really encourage you to do all possible research and take all possible precautions to protect yourself from the risks that come from going out into the world. But as long as you do that, all that’s left to do is to boldly go.